Favorite Meal in Tuscany

While I enjoyed many meals in Tuscany, one really stood out on top. We took Rick Steve’s advice and ate at a restaurant in Voltera called Don Beta, a small family owned Trattoria. When I eat at an Italian restaurant in the US I usually rate it’s quality based on the gnocchi, a small potato pasta that looks like pillows. When I saw Gnocchi  “gnudi” (Tuscan dumplings with 4 types of cheeses and balsamic vinegar) on the menu at Don Beta’s I had to order it. As you can see by the picture, the Gnocchi that they served me was nothing like what I expected. They were the size of a meatball and bathed in a cheese sauce then drizzled with balsamic vinegar. They were wonderfully light and loaded with spinach. With each bite your mouth coated with a wonderful 4 cheese sauce that was complimented with a hint of sweet balsamic vinegar. I definitely have to try to make this when I get home.

Tuscan Wine at Tenutte Niccoli

Today I was able to visit the winery owned by the agroturismo where I am stayinSangioveseg in Tuscany. The wine here is excellent as expected and the quality of wine in Italy has risen dramatically in the last 75 years. Growing up I remember the straw covered chianti bottles with the melted candles that often tasted like your grandfather made it in your basement. Today, Italian wine is winning awards on a global basis and the quality is quickly catching up to the best in the world. Wines like Brunello from Montalcino and Chianti Reserve are fetching high prices on the world market. Here is a quick tour of the Tenutte Niccoli Winery that uses Varnacci and Sangiovese grapes that have been grown in the San Gimignano region since the time of the Etruscans.

The grapes are dumped into this auger which feeds them into the separator.

This cylinder spins and the grapes are forced through the holes.

The grapes drop through the crusher and are pumped through hoses into the fermentation tanks.

The grapes for the red wine with their skins are placed in large tanks for 2 weeks to ferment. The white wine uses only white grapes and is fermented without their skins.

After a second 1 week fermentation the wine is stored in French oak barrels. The white wine is stored at 15C and the reds are stored at 27C. 

This gadget allows the CO2 to escape during the second fermentation without letting in any oxygen, You can see the bubbles escaping.

The best part of the tour, of course, was the wine tasting at the end.

Agroturismo La Lucciolaia in San Gimignano

One of the highlights of my stay in Tuscany was my stay at the Agroturismo La Lucciolaia in San Gimignano. The best way to describe what an agroturismo is is to compare it to a bed & breakfast that is located on a farm. We stayed at La Lucciolaia in San Gimignano for 5 days. It was very modern with large rooms and a modern bathroom (very important in Italy). The breakfasts were wonderful with salami, cheese, eggs, croissants, fresh baked good, fruit and wonderful cappuccino. The best part were the views out our room. Looking out our back window we can see the ancient walled town of San Gimignano sitting on top of a hill across a valley covered with vineyards  We were even able to watch them harvest the grapes for this years crop of wine.

La Lucciolaia Agroturismo

Breakfast

View of San Gimignano Out Our Bedroom Window

Our Room

Tuscan Desserts

One of the best parts of dinner in Italy are the desserts. They are varied, sweet and delicious. Here is a sampling of what I've enjoyed.

Chocolate and Pear Torta

Tiramisu

Croissant Filled with Pastry Cream

Almond Biscotti Dipped in Sweet Dessert Wine

Pasta Ragout: Good Eats – Lousy Weather

In the past 24 hours, I’ve enjoyed 2 great pasta dishes and have experienced torrential downpours. The Duomo in Siena today was absolutely breathtaking but we got soaked and cold waiting in line to get in. Thankfully we enjoyed a wonderful dish of ravioli that warmed our hearts.

Tagliatelle ai Profumie del Bosco

Tagliatelli Pasta with Scents of the Forest

We devoured this pasta dish last night at our agroturismo with great quantities of wine made on the farm we were staying at. The tagliatelle pasta was homemade, tender and shaped like long, broad noodles. It was bathed in a ragout of ground pork and mushrooms (thus scents of the forest) in a brown sauce. If all I was eating was this dish I would have had at least two dishes. As it was this was only the second of five courses. Pasta in Italy is never served as a main course.

Ravioloni di Ricotta e Spinaci al Sugo di Agnello

Large Ravioli with Ricotta and Spinach in Lamb Ragout

These were some of the best ravioli that I have ever eaten. They had a creamy center of ricotta cheese and spinach and were bathed in a brown sauce that had small diced pieces of lamb with fresh thyme and mint. My only regret was that I did not order a second plate of the ravioli.

Wild Boar Salami

Variety of wild boar salami

One of the specialties of Florence and Chianti is the wild boar. You can have it served in a red wine stew, in sausage and in salami. While we were at the Castello Verrazzano, where the explorer Verrazzano lived, enjoying a wine tour several wild boars broke out of the brush and scampered across the vineyard. At the end of the tour we enjoyed a plate of wild boar salami, cheese and the best balsamic vinegar I have ever had. The balsamic was so good you could have drank it by the glassful (it was $75 for a small bottle). Compliment the food with a Chianti Classico Reserve and the wild boar salami and I was in heaven. I would be a very happy man if I could have that for lunch every day for the rest of my trip. Immediately after this meal we visited the town of Greve where we visited a famous butcher that specializes in wild boar products.

Wild Boar Salami at the Castello Verrazzano Winery

Wild boar shanks air cured like prosciutto

 

Wild boar in front of a famous butcher in Greve

Italian Hamburgers

Ok, I didn't come to Italy to eat hamburgers but alas I was in a local restaurant and found out what the Italians can do to improve our humble hamburger. What I found was a hamburger made from a local breed of white cattle. Each hamburger is then layered with grilled eggplant and zucchini then topped with aged provolone. This is served in a perfect roll that is crisp onthe outside and soft on the inside. The combination made my mouth curl up with a smile from the first bite to the last.

Gelato

Gelato is the Italian word for ice cream, and is defined as a soft ice cream containing little or no air. I define it as delicioso. It seems like there is a gelato shop on every corner each with gelato piled high in every flavor imaginable.  They have every thing from chocolate, to cantaloupe to pana cote, to butter pecan, to smurf (it was blue and I have no idea what it tasted like). My only regret is that I will not have enough time to try every flavor. It's rich, intense, creamy, sweet and cold. What more could I ask for after walking around all day.

Locanda di Poeti (Inn of the Poet)

Locanda di Poeti 

(Inn of the Poet) is a small guest house (just 7 rooms) just minutes from the center of Florence. It is loaded with poetic charm - the walls are covered with poems and there is even a spot where you can write your own poems. The rooms are comfortable and recently remodeled with all of the modern conveniences. They even have a small kitchen where you can make yourself some espresso in the morning. I give it 4 stars.

Lunch in Florence - Piazza di Santa Croche

We had a wonderful lunch in in an outdoor cafe on the piazza (plaza/square) in front of Santa Croce (Holy Cross).

Penne with Mushrooms and Olives - a wonderful dish of pasta bathed in a mild tomato sauce with cream, mushrooms and black olives (similar but more 
sophisticated than our black olives).

Pasta Carbonara - spaghetti with a rich cheese sauce and spicy Italian bacon. It was sinfully rich and creamy.

First Day in Italy

After  only a few hours sleep the first day in Italy is always exhausting and the best way to combat being tired is sun and food. It's a beautiful sunny day in Florence, 75F, and food is around every corner. 

We started our day with lunch in a little trattoria called del Barone on Via Borgo S. Lorenzo close to the Duomo. We had some great sandwiches that were inspiring and mouthwatering. First off they were some of the best crusty rolls that I've ever had, not like the soft rolls we eat in the US. The crust was crispy and inside soft. I had a sandwich with fried fennel sausage that they made right at the restaurant and were savory like a good sweet Italian sausage should be. The other sandwich we enjoyed was layered with pecorino cheese, grilled eggplant and tuscan ham (you can't get this in the US). It was a lunch made for a king.

After walking around for a few hours it was time for a snack and I could not resist buying some pastries at a cafe. One of my favorite Italian pastries growing up is Sfogliatelle which are shell-shaped filled pastries filled with Italian Cheese and candied fruit. What should my eyes behold but a Sfogliatelle filled with Nutella chocolate hazelnut cream. Think of a hundred layers of thin crust that crackle and melt in your mouth while oozing out a creamy chocolate center. They were pure decadence. 

Green Beans with Garlic & Tomatoes

Makes 4-6 servings

This dish is simple to make but the combination of green beans, garlic, onion and tomatoes adds a complex taste that melds together. They are ideal to serve to company and easy enough to make with dinner. They are just as good as anything you will ever get in a restaurant.

Ingredients *

1 Lg Onion (diced)

2 TBS Olive Oil

2 lb. Fresh Green Beans *

12 oz. Can Diced Tomatoes (do not drain) *

¼ C Fresh Parsley (chopped) or 1 TBS Dried Parsley

¼ C Fresh Basil (chopped) or 1 tsp dried Basil

2-3 cloves Garlic (minced)

½ tsp Table Salt

4 grinds Black Pepper

I prefer fresh green beans.  The taste of canned green beans pales in comparison however frozen will work in a pinch.  Wash the beans then trim the ends.  Place them in a steamer for about ten minutes or until they are fork tender.  You can also boil the green beans until fork tender. Rinse under cold water to stop the cooking.

Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan on medium heat.  Add the diced onion and cook until the onion is translucent.  Add the garlic and cook an additional 30 seconds.  It is important that you do not add the garlic any earlier or it will burn and make your dish bitter.  Add the diced tomato, parsley, basil, salt, and pepper, and simmer for 15 min on low.  Add the green beans and cook for an additional 5 minutes. 

* Pronto Substitutes

Green Beans – If you don’t that the time or inclination to clean fresh green beans you can substitute frozen green beans or better still you can use Prewashed Green Beans, found in the produce department, which are fresh trimmed, triple washed and ready to use.

Canned Diced Tomatoes – If you don’t like tomatoes or you want to vary the dish use 4 oz of diced roasted peppers (see photo above).

Fresh Garlic vs. Jarred Garlic

Every Italian cookbook that I’ve ever looked at has used fresh garlic cloves in their recipes.  When I get home from work and I want to cook I want to spend the least amount of time in the kitchen while still creating great tasting food.  When it comes to garlic I will usually reach for the jar of minced garlic that I always keep in the fridge.  I find it close enough to fresh that I prefer the convenience.  The choice is yours!

To print a copy of this recipe go to Green Beans with Garlic and Tomatoes.

Gnocchi Verdi with Prosciutto

When I go to a new Italian restaurant I will usually judge the quality of their food by how good their gnocchi are. I have never been very good at making gnocchi myself so it was something I looked forward to when I went out. Well that has finally changed. I have finally learned how to make soft, light, pillowy, gnocchi by microwaving the potatoes instead of boiling them. The enemy of gnocchi is water. Less is better. If the gnocchi dough is too wet you will need to add extra flour which makes them heavy.

Makes 6-8 servings

Gnocchi Ingredients

2 ¼ lb Idaho or Russet Potatoes, skin on (be exact)

5 oz Frozen Chopped Spinach (thawed & cooked)

2 ¼ C All-Purpose Flour, plus extra for the board

¼ C Grated Parmigiano or Romano Cheese

1/8 tsp Freshly Grated Nutmeg

1/8 tsp table Salt

1 Lg. Egg

 

Sauce Ingredients

½ C Extra Virgin Olive Oil

¼ Lb. Proscuitto (chopped fine)

3 Cloves Garlic (minced)

¼ C Grated Parmigano or Romano Cheese

Place exactly 2 ¼ pounds of washed Idaho potatoes on a microwaveable plate and pierce the potatoes with a fork to let the steam out. It is critical that you have as close to 2 ¼ pounds of potatoes as possible or it will throw off the entire recipe, use a scale. Place the potatoes in the microwave on high for 10-14 minutes or until they are fork tender. Let them cool to room temperature.

Place half a box of frozen chopped spinach (5oz) and 1 tablespoon water into a 1-quart covered casserole dish. Cover and cook 7 minutes in the microwave on high, stirring once half way through. Place the cooked spinach into a strainer and press out all of the water (see photo). Note: you can cook the entire box and save half for another meal.

Slice the potatoes in half and scoop out the potatoes using a tablespoon (see photo) and discard the skins. Using the large holes on a box grater shred the potatoes onto your work surface.  Add the chopped spinach to the potatoes and mix well, it will be very wet (see photo). Add the flour, Parmigiano, salt, nutmeg and egg and knead until smooth. Be patient here. You will need to mix for several minutes. At first it will feel dry but as you knead it, the water from the potatoes will hydrate the flour and it will come together. Add a little flour if it is sticky. Let it sit for ten minutes to finish hydrating.

Cut the dough into 10 equal pieces. Take each piece and place it on a lightly floured board. Using the palms of your hands, roll out the dough into a long log or rope (see photo). Roll out from the middle, stretching the dough as you go until it is ½ to 1 inch thick (see video). Cut each log into ½ inch pieces. Roll a fork over the top of each piece to form grooves. Place the gnocchi on a floured cookie sheet.

Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil and add 1 tablespoons of table salt.

To make the sauce, heat the olive oil over medium high heat until shimmering. Add the chopped proscuitto and stir until it starts to crisp. Add the minced garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Pour the sauce into the bowl that you will use to serve the gnocchi.

Add the gnocchi to the pot. As soon as they float to the surface remove them with a slotted spoon or spider scoop and put them into the serving dish with the sauce. Mix together with the sauce then add ¼ C of Parmigiano or Romano cheese to the top.

 

If you are not cooking them the same day, place them on a cookie sheet in a single layer and freeze them. Put them into the boiling water frozen, do not thaw them before cooking.

To print a copy of this recipe go to Gnocchi Verdi.

Peach Ice Cream

My wifes favorite fruit is peaches. But I find it very difficult to find ripe sweet peaches in the grocery store. When I do find them I tend to go crazy and all sorts of dishes with peaches. We were able to go out to western North Carolina and go peach picking this year and find some sweet ripe fruit. However, they quickly started to overripen so I had to act quickly making peach jam and peach ice cream.

Ingredients

2 C Ripe Peaches (pitted and cut into ½ “ chunks) *

1 ¼ C Sugar (divided)

1 TBS Lemon Juice

2 TBS Peach Schnapps

2 C Heavy Cream

1 C Whole Milk

½ tsp Vanilla Extract

4 Egg Yolks

In a medium bowl, mix the sliced peaches ½ cup sugar, lemon juice, and peach schnapps. Cover and let them macerate for 2 to 12 hours. This will draw out some peach juices to help concentrate the peach flavor.

Preheat oven to 425F and adjust the oven rack to the middle position.

Cover a large rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil and cover with cooking spray. Spread the macerated peach chunks in a single layer on the cookie sheet and bake until the juices start to caramelize and turn brown at the edges of the sheet, about 20-25 minutes.

Remove the peaches to a bowl and allow to cool to room temperature. Once cooled, place them in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour.

In a medium saucepan, combine the remaining ¾ cup sugar, heavy cream, milk, and vanilla. Bring to a light boil stirring frequently.

In a separate medium bowl whisk the egg yolks. Slowly stream in 1/3 of the boiled cream mixture while whisking. This will temper the eggs, preventing them from scrambling. Return the remaining cream mixture to the stove with the heat on. Slowly pour the egg mixture into the cream mixture, whisking constantly. The custard mixture will thicken as it comes to a boil. Remove from the heat and pour through a strainer into a bowl set over ice. This will remove any clumps that may have formed. Stir the custard until cold.

Transfer the cold custard to an ice cream maker and follow the manufacturers instructions. When the ice cream is almost completely set add in the peach chunks and continue to frre until done. Place in a covered container in the freezer for at least two hours before serving.

Intensifying Peach Flavor

Peaches have been breed for their ability to resist bruising and be shelf stable. This has resulted in a lack of peach flavor. This was especially evident in North Carolina this summer where we had record amounts of rain. I saw a peach in a roadside stand that was 2 ½ pounds and the size of a small ball. The oven drying that I did in this recipe concentrates the flavor and makes any dessert “peachier”. The addition of the Peach schnapps also intensifies the peach flavor and makes the ice cream creamier.

* Pronto Substitutes

Peaches – You can peel the peaches if you prefer but I did not for this recipe. Only use ripe peaches, do not use overripe squishy peaches.

Peach Schnapps – You can also use Peach Brandy.

To print a copy of this recipe go to Peach Ice Cream.

Neapolitan Meatloaf with Caramelized Onions

Makes 8 servings

Sunday dinner in my house usually involved pasta and meatballs. This meatloaf recipe was inspired by my mother’s meatballs and my love of caramelized onions. This comfort food combines the savory tastes of a meatball with the sweet taste of caramelized onions. You can prepare it up to 24 hours in advance, then bake and serve.

Ingredients

1 Lg. or 2 Small Yellow Onions (sliced)

2 tsp Olive Oil

3 Cloves Garlic (Minced) *

½ C Italian Style Bread Crumbs

2 Lg. Eggs (whisked)

1 tsp dried Basil

2 tsp Fresh Parsley (chopped)

½ tsp Kosher Salt or ¼ tsp Table Salt

10 Grinds Black Pepper

4 Sundried Tomatoes (Chopped)

2 TBS Grated Romano or Parmesan Cheese

1 ¼ Lb 85% Ground Beef *

1 C Tomato Sauce (divided) *

Preheat oven to 350°F.  Spray a rimmed baking sheet or baking pan with cooking spray.

Heat the olive oil in a medium skillet over low heat.  Slowly cook the onions until they turn a golden brown.  This will take 15-25 minutes and you need to frequently stir the onions to keep them from burning.  When the onions are dark golden brown add the garlic and cook for an additional 60 seconds.

Mix all ingredients except the beef and the tomato sauce in a large bowl to combine.  Add the beef and ½ C tomato sauce and mix together with your hands until it is just combined.  Do not over mix or it will toughen the meatloaf. Transfer the mixture to the baking tray and form into a loaf shape.

Bake for 30 minutes and then pour the remaining ½ cup of tomato sauce over the top of the meat loaf and return to the oven. Continue baking until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the middle of the meatloaf reads 160°F.  This should take a total of 45-55 minutes. Transfer the meatloaf to a cutting board and let it stand for 10 minutes before cutting. Cut into 8 slices.

* Pronto Substitutes

Minced Garlic – you can substitute 1 heaping teaspoon of minced garlic from a jar — I always have this in my refrigerator.

Ground Beef – You can use a combination of ground beef and ground veal for a richer taste or you can substitute a leaner ground beef but the meatloaf will come out dryer and less flavorful.

Tomato Sauce – You can use canned tomato sauce or your favorite jarred or homemade tomato sauce.

How to Caramelize Onions

Caramelizing an onion converts starch to sugar creating a savory delight that can top a steak, be mixed with other vegetables, or added to a dish like this meatloaf. The key to caramelizing onions is patience.  You need to cook the onions over medium low heat, stirring frequently for 15 – 25 minutes or until they turn a deep golden brown. Any extra caramelized onions can be frozen in an airtight container for up to 3 months.

To print a copy of this recipe go to Neopolitan Meatloaf.